A step in the right direction was to replace it with the Simple Refreshing Facial Wash Gel, which uses cocamidopropyl betaine as its only surfactant (and it’s considered to be one of the gentlest surfactants around). In terms of treating acne, an in vitro study found that 1% concentration of SAP has strong antimicrobial effects against acne for 8 hours, (49) and that a 5% SAP lotion used for 12 weeks is more effective than 5% benzoyl peroxide monotherapy and 0.1% adapalene with NO SIDE EFFECTS. Thanks for all your help! The changing of seasons can wreak havoc on acne-prone skin, and winter is no different. This morning I woke up to skin that was much much better. (27). UPDATED SKINCARE ROUTINE FOR ACNE-PRONE, DEHYDRATED SKIN. How to Fix Dehydrated Skin. YOU DO? Why Does Dehyrated Skin Happen? https://shop.motherdirt.com/product/biome-friendly-moisturizer/. However, these aren’t the same as having this dry skin type, nor are they … Their cleanser also sounds simple and promising. Together with cholesterol and saturated fatty acids, ceramides creates a water-impermeable, protective organ to prevent excessive water loss due to evaporation as well as a barrier against the entry of microorganisms.” (20). I know the idea of cleansing with just water might seem gross, but many people have had success with it. Thanks for clarifying. If you have cyclic acne, it could just be a sign that your period is on … I actually tried vaseline yesterday, and it took away the redness that has been destroying my life. Let’s go over them. The poor dude had literally tried everything from 4 rounds of accutane to 10% benzoyl peroxide, various diets, supplements, exercise etc. I won’t say it’s a perfect option for dehydrated skin, but it’s certainly a lot less compromising to the stratum corneum than most other acne medications. Make sure to especially avoid bar soaps and anything that has a high pH. I also can’t seem to find success with any traditional moisturizers, and even the super simple ones from Avene, La Roche Posay, and Sebamed that frequently get recommended will break me out. When your skin becomes overly dry as a result of dehydration, these glands may go into overdrive and produce extra oil 5. Now it’s your turn! Wow, great article! Use an occlusive at night to help seal in moisture. It’s cheap, gentle, and effective. If your skin is ultra compromised and cannot tolerate any cleanser (even vanicream or something similar), try using micellar water! Interesting. (34, 35, 36). Helloo! Oils high in linoleic acid, such as rosehip oil, hemp oil and … Though instead of just making one sudden drastic overhaul, such as going completely cold turkey on actives (which I would find too intimidating), I had a gradual multi-step process: Firstly, I took a look at my routine and removed the actives that cause irritation and dryness and subbed them with gentler alternatives. Sometimes if I really want a hot shower I will cover the parts of me I’m worried about in oil first. I kind of disagree, but that’s a topic for another time. I just wanted your opinion on my soon-to-be new skin care routine. Dehydrated skin often leads to an increase in sensitivity. And people wonder why tretinoin has such lousy tolerability. Excess oil combines with dead skin cells, dirt, dust and other particles to clog the pores and produce acne … Here are a few suggestions: I feel like this one is kind of a mixed bag. I find myself rarely reaching for blotting powder throughout the day now.”—u/l0l0lol0l0l, “The thing that has ultimately helped me reduce sebaceous filaments / blackheads is hydrating the f*ck out of my face and switching to gentle physical exfoliation 3x a week. EVERYTHING You Need to Know! ), “To those of you who are stubborn like me, hear me out- it isn’t worth it. I realized that I’d somehow managed to dehydrate it like crazy, and, because my dog has a tendency to have a Malasezzia overgrowth (this is vet-diagnosed), I may have somehow gotten that on my face as well. Where have you been fc Anyway, since your fungal acne post I’ve wondered if you have cured your kerastosis pilaris on your body? Sometimes longer! I mean, made out of someone’s pure passion for something to be put here on the internet for free without anyone else’s help. Fun fact #1: Dr. Kligman, the dude who co-invented  Retin-A (tretinoin), once wrote a paper asserting the SC was just a dead pile of useless cells. Just keep in mind that vaseline and other occlusives trap everything underneath the barrier they form, so it’s very important that you apply them to clean, freshly washed skin at the end of your routine. Ceramides are the most abundant part of the lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum. Fun fact #3: benzoyl peroxide can reduce P. acnes (i.e. This will be especially true for those suffering from any of the following conditions: adult acne, atopic dermatitis (eczema), dandruff, malassezia folliculitis (fungal acne), psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, and tinea versicolor (pityriasis versicolor). (15) Or more simply put, they are the main part of the protective barrier of skin, accounting for approximately 50% of it, followed by cholesterol at 25%, and free fatty acids at 15%. Thank you for this article F.C.! Yeah, you heard that right. It was a bit of divine intervention: I was staying at a friend’s house for the weekend, and on Saturday night realized I’d forgotten my Vanicream. Quit using all actives. ), Shaving (I am a guy, and must say you ladies are missing out. Alternatively, you can do the double oil cleansing method! I’d argue that these two would pack a much heavier punch together than alone, so it’s worth giving it a mention along with niacinamide. Dry skin doesn’t necessarily cause acne, but the products that you use to treat one issue may be worsening the other. I love seeing people link to your site and I’ve read through all of it at least 5 times!! That’s why I’m always harping on about using benzoyl peroxide “short contact therapy.” In other words, rather than leaving it on the skin, you apply BP for 5 to 10 minutes (aim for shorter durations), then rinse it off completely. Otherwise, you risk locking in bacteria and a bunch of other nasties you don’t wanna deal with. This results in flakey, dull, rough-looking skin that increases the likelihood of developing clogged pores and therefore acne. Stuff like SD or denatured alcohol (e.g. Well think of urea as a way to bridge that gap. Vaseline. It’s also been shown to work synergistically with niacinamide to treat hyper-pigmentation (which is probably the reason why Shark Sauce has become so popular — it combines 5% niacinamide with 3% NAG). Hi again, I’ve been reading your blog for a while, it’s so helpful. I’ve also used Stratia Liquid Gold in the past and I think my skin tolerated it fairly well – would that be more appropriate for barrier repair, or do you think it’s aggravating for Malassezia? “Epithelialization is an essential component of wound healing used as a defining parameter of a successful wound closure. Collodial oatmeal has very gentle cleansing action because of the naturally occurring saponins, and is particularly excellent for eczema, dry, red, or irritated skin. DON'T USE HIGH-LINOLEIC ACID OILS. Fun fact #2: one of the reasons baby skin is super smooth and soft is because of ceramides! Hydratime Face Cream (http://www.theskinmedshop.com/hydratime-plus-face-cream-50ml-c2x16511579): AQUA (WATER), GLYCERIN, CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE, CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCOL PALMITATE, CAPRYLIC/ CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE, ISONONYL ISONONANOATE, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE, ANHYDROXYLITOL, C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE, DIMETHYL SULFONE, UREA, STEARIC ACID, METHYLENE BIS-BENZOTRIAZOLYL TETRAMETHYLBUTYLPHENOL, CHOLESTEROL, XYLITOL, SODIUM HYALURONATE, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, CERAMIDE 3, LACTIC ACID, CERAMIDE 2, CERAMIDE 6 II, BENZYL PCA, TOCOPHERYL ACETATE, CETEARYL GLUCOSIDE, CERAMIDE 1, BEHENYL ALCOHOL, ASCORBYL PALMITATE, ARACHIDYL GLUCOSIDE, C30-45 ALKYL CETEARYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPOLYMER, DECYL GLUCOSIDE, ARACHIDYL ALCOHOL, PALMITIC ACID, SODIUM LAUROYL LACTYLATE, SODIUM HYDROXIDE, BHT, XANTHAN GUM, CARBOMER, HYDROXYETHYL ACRYLATE/ SODIUM ACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE COPOLYMER, PHENOXYETHANOL, BENZYL ALCOHOL, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE). THAT STUFF IS THE SARAHA DESERT INCARNATE.”. It’s best to think of your skin as an open wound when treating dehydration. Quite the paradox, isn’t it? -Recently, I discovered the brand The Ordinary and after just one week of using their products, my skin became visibly clearer and brighter. (13) Dehydrated skin is no different! The most popular option is vaseline a.k.a. the point is that dehydrated skin, in essence, can be thought of as having an impaired stratum corneum, so DON’T FUX WITH YO’ STRATUM CORNEUM cause if you impair it, it will impair your life. (33). These are a category of moisturizer that work by forming a barrier over the skin to prevent water loss (similar to dimethicone, which is another ingredient to use). Waaaaaaaaat? This has made the biggest difference in how dry my skin is or isn’t. I get a bit annoyed when some people (and blogs) claim that micellar water doesn’t do an adequate job of cleaning and that it shouldn’t be your primary cleanser, because in my experience it absolutely can, and I think more people SHOULD use it that way if they’re not getting the results they want from regular cleansers. I know you say to patch test everything, but I was damn near to scratching my face off, it was that itchy, so I took a leap of faith and slathered the Hada Labo products on. Also known as vitamin B3 or nicotinic acid. I read and appreciate every single one :) If you ever have any questions, feel free to tweet or Instagram DM me @styleandsushi or email me styleandsushi@outlook.com. Relief. Avoid Scars & Speed Recovery, Probiotics for Skin: Choosing Which is Best for You, Why the pH of Skin and Products Are Crucially Important (2020 Updated), Chemical Peels At Home Explained (13 Studies): EVERYTHING You Need to Know, Clarisonic Mia 2 (Thoughts After 2 Years), Cosrx Galactomyces 95 Whitening Power Essence. Certain oils do tend to work pretty decently, though, as I’ve had success with Squalane and MCT oil. Do not neglect this! I should also throw in that I make it a point to drink a LOT of water. Hi F.C., your blog saved my skin. Thank you so much! 1) Cetaphil Gentle Cleanser It’s all about repairing the moisture barrier and nurturing the stratum corneum (SC) back into full existence. Thank you so much for helping my skin out. Perhaps you’re wondering, “well what the heck should I avoid f.c. Note: iatrogenic means illnesses caused by, or related to medical examination / treatment . These are all very well tolerated, and unlikely to cause breakouts. haha), “I discovered that by properly hydrating my skin, my scars are practically unnoticeable! “Cleanser surfactants can bind to SC proteins, leading to keratin swelling within corneocytes and subsequent structural damage to the SC as well as damage to and denaturation of key SC enzymes… While it may be impossible for cleansers to have no negative impact on the skin, attempts to formulate cleansers to reduce cleanser-induced damage have been successful.” (8). Either AM or PM. No bueno. Where can I get me some of this foam? Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress. Cleansers are probably the most destabilizing part of any skincare routine. It’s supposed to be biome-friendly, and their moisturizer seems right up your alley, it’s an oil and essentially just a blend of squalane and caprylic. You may be wondering, “is there a way I can manage dehydration AND treat acne at the same time?”. I really think the culture of “as many products as possible” that /r/SCA has adopted is damaging for most people. Oh, and did I mention it also increases collagen production and does comparatively better than antibiotics when treating acne. It takes approximately 28 days for the skin cell cycle to replace itself. Ingredients to Look For. I actually use an app to remind myself.”—u/didneypurnsess, “In the end, I figured out what works best for me is glycerin and then vaseline at night, and more importantly, minimalism…. (42, 43) Dehydrated skin is basically a wounded stratum corneum. If you absolutely must cleanse twice a day, try using only water during one of those sessions. But I already know what you’re thinking…. Dehydration is the default now. And dude, haven’t you ever noticed how boxers always slather that stuff on in between rounds? That’s a huge difference. I don’t regret it at all. You see, the crappy thing about malassezia-conditions (e.g. Just trust me on this one. These are made of the same material. “More often than not [dehydrated skin is] the result of using skincare products that contain harsh or skin-sensitizing ingredients. Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, is a result of lack of moisture in the uppermost layer of the skin, and it’s a symptom of a skin … The simplicity is so ballin’ and effective! I’m sure you’ve heard of benzoyl peroxide (BP). I leave it running in my room, and it helps cut back on the dryness / dehydration I experience when Christmas time be wrecking havoc on my skin. Oily Acne Prone Skin Products Numerous studies have shown that salicylic acid (BHA) and benzoyl peroxide Just f*ckin left my face alone, moisturizing and cleansing only for a month. So…. And last but not least… occlusives. Also, I found out that I can use coconut derivatives such as cetyl alcohol and capric/caprylic triglycerides! In fact, it’s probably making matters worse! I had to share my sad story with you, but what I really came down here to say is that my uber oily skin turned normal SO quickly after I started aggressively hydrating. The changing of seasons can wreak havoc on acne-prone skin, and winter is no different. And what makes it especially cool, is that it is both repairing, moisturizing, AND exfoliating. That’s one that thing makes dehydrated skin especially annoying. You cannot fix dehydration IF there is still exfoliation on the table happening. Like urea and glycerin, this is also a humectant and a component of the NMF. I don’t have CeraVe immediately available to me here in the UK, but I’m going to Italy in a few days and this product from Synchroline has ceramides and seems maybe promising: Sensicure Cream Gel (http://www.theskinmedshop.com/sensicure-c102x2573139): AQUA (WATER), CYCLOPENTASILOXANE, DIMETHYL SULFONE,DIMETHICONE, GLYCERIN, PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PEG/PPG-20/15 DIMETHICONE, SODIUMCHLORIDE, XYLITYLGLUCOSIDE, CETEARYL DIMETHICONE CROSSPLYMER, XYLITOL, SODIUMHYALURONATE, CERAMIDE 1, ANHYDROXYLITOL, CERAMIDE 3, CHOLESTEROL, CERAMIDE 6II, PHYTOSPHINGOSINE, BENZYL PCA, PHENOXYETHONAL, DISODIUM EDTA, SODIUMHYDROXIDE, PARFUM (FRAGRANCE). If so what do you think made the biggest difference and do you have other body acne as well? Who woulda thought water was the solution? Start with either, AHAs (glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, malic acid, citric acid etc. (1). Like, wow. . While its symptoms overlap with that of dry skin – which usually feels tight, itchy and irritated – dehydrated skin is sensitive, flaky and has dull skin tone. Your skin type is what you're naturally born with, such as oily skin or dry skin. I’m also amazed to say that it took me until I was 31 years old to realize that cleansers were causing all my acne. Do you feel I missed other options for treating acne while simultaneously dealing with dehydration? I’ve been doing once-weekly Nizoral maintenance treatments, as well as using sulphur ointment masks here and there, so I’m not sure if it’s the squalane or just the Malassezia fighting back? This helps lessen / further reduce the irritation of just cleansing alone. Do you feel tightness? If you absolutely must cleanse twice a day, try using only water during one of those sessions. One of my all-time favorite case studies about using just water to cleanse skin comes from Beautiful Bro on youtube. This would explain why I’ve never been able to take a lot of cream foundations, why my skin HATED oils with a vengeance, and why certain cleansing oils actually left me with little bumps on my forehead. It’s very unlikey to give you problems when used on it’s own, however. Dehydrated skin is also a symptom / condition NOT a permanent skin type! You're About To Get Your Period. I want to switch to more moisturizing products, but my personal issue is that my skin doesn’t seem to tolerate squalane or caprylic acid very well – I’ve linked both to breakouts in previous products I’ve used – so I’m a bit wary of trying some of the moisturizing products you’ve recommended. Before, the skin next to my nose/cheek would look wrinkled and dry when I pulled it taut. Well… it turns out the stratum corneum is HUGELY important and not just a dead layer of skin devoid of biological activity and function. 2) CeraVe Baby Cream, *PM* Your skin condition, however, is what happens to your … [Generally speaking] strong cleansers that are highly efficient in removing dirt, oil, and other debris from the skin surface are also likely to produce the greatest magnitude of damage to the permeability barrier of the SC through stripping lipids and components of NMF (natural moisturizing factor) and/or damage to SC proteins.” (9). Well, these corneocytes are held together by something called the lipid matrix, which is composed of ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Additionally, research continues to uncover specific abnormalities of the SC that contribute to certain dermatological diseases and/or impaired epidermal functions, and how some topical and systemic therapies may adversely affect SC integrity and function.” (4). But in the meantime, here’s a good video explaining what it is and how to do it (bonus points for the ASMR it gives me haha). I don’t want to sound like a broken record here, buuuut…. "Dehydrated skin can be oily, combination, or normal skin type that is lacking water and feels tight", says Patricia Boland, International skin educator and lead product developer at Colorescience UK. . One option is Vanicream Gentle Facial Cleanser! This was the biggest thing that helped. acne causing bacteria) by up to 97.5% in just 5 days. :'( I’ve gotten a few requests from Patreons to make a guide on dehydrated skin, so that’s what we’re going to be doing today! I found it tucked away in a cupboard in the bathroom one morning and out of curiosity I wanted to experiment with the idea of NOT letting water in the shower touch my face and instead just lightly wash my face with the micellar water afterward. I recently started using a relatively new moisturizer by Cetaphil b/c it contains the ingredients below, including urea! We should be doing as little as possible with active ingredients, and focus more on replenishing the skin to get our moisture barriers back up and running. Don't worry it's nothing spammy! “Certain topical products, including over-the-counter (OTC) skin care products with certain additives (e.g., alpha-hydroxy acids, astringents, abrasive granules, retinol) can induce damage to the SC leading to changes related to SC desiccation and cutaneous irritation. Just keep this in mind if you plan on pairing it with other skincare products. In my experience, it’s not that plain glycerin works significantly better than hydrating serums, but you do have to make sure there’s enough water for your skin to absorb or you’ll just make things worse. True, but hear me out first. Here is a list of the 11-24 fatty acids that you should be mindful of and possibly avoid, unless you wanna try and experiment with them in your routine: I bolded the two that might be okay, just make sure to patch test! And it makes sense considering squalene makes up 10-16% of our sebaceous lipid mixture (i.e. THAT, I think, is one of the scariest things if you’re suffering from dehydrated skin: most people with this condition have gone months, maybe even years, constantly putting products on their face to the point where it’s almost become a mental dependency, and they feel that in order to help their skin they NEED to be aggressively targeting it with several treatments. Remember how I said urea is important? (47, 48). Have you heard of Mother Dirt’s line btw? This is a good option for those who don’t live in an area where there is “hard water,” otherwise micellar water would be a better bang for your buck. Laser and light-based therapy is considered a painless way of ameliorating acne with no downtime, and little side effects. I want to scream “MINIMALISM IS YOUR SAVIOR” from the top of a mountain, because I basically stopped doing anything and my skin has never looked better. My skin feels totally new. Especially knowing how much pseudoscience is floating around with no sources that constantly fool many. Made a huge difference. To summarize everything you should be avoiding in one neat quote, here’s a excerpt from a research paper: “Overwashing; overbathing; use of harsh skin cleansers, astringents, or exfoliants; exposure to irritants; occupational exposures; climatic changes; low ambient humidity; certain topical medications or cosmeceuticals) cause damage and loss (“stripping”) of SC lipids, damage to important SC proteins, and loss of components of NMF (natural moisturizing factor), leading to increased TEWL and desiccation.” (12). “Filaggrin is degraded into several free amino acids (histidine, glutamine, arginine), PCA, urocanic acid, ornithine, citrulline, and aspartic acid. Imagine an infant has been glued to your face and treat it accordingly! As you may have guessed, dehydrated skin is lacking in ceramides so it’s a good idea to use products that contain them! :p Link here for those interested. That would be super nifty for idiots like me. Remember how I said you need to avoid all chemical exfoliation when treating dehydration? My favorite is Vaseline. When I ask them what their routine looks like, they usually say something along the lines of…. ?” Good question! It will make your life a whole lot easier! My face is now SO much more resilient and I can’t believe all the money and time I was spending on hydrating products that never ‘took hold’ because my skin kept getting knocked back with exfoliation.”—u/lgbtqbbq (a.k.a. I also find the inside-outside approach is important, my skin bounces back pretty fast from being abused or neglected if I am giving it the fatty acids it needs in my diet (oily fish, whole eggs, walnuts, seeds).”—u/Firefox7275, “I started using a konjac sponge along with some cleansing milk in the shower, followed up with a toner, then some essences and a light moisturizer. A guy, and psoriasis are stubborn like me, hear me out- isn... 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